Luxury Lifestyle

In the world of luxury, every detail matters. While design and service often take center stage, there’s one powerful element working behind the scenes to elevate the ambiance: music. From exclusive boutiques to high-end dining, the right soundtrack transforms spaces, leaving a lasting impression that words alone cannot achieve.

Creating Atmosphere in High-End Spaces

In luxury spaces, atmosphere is everything. From the moment a guest steps into a high-end boutique, a sophisticated lounge, or a Michelin-starred restaurant, their perception of the environment can shape their entire experience. While obvious elements like décor and lighting are often given precedence, there is one understated yet pivotal factor that elevates ambience: music.

Luxury establishments understand that music isn’t merely a background element but a tool to tell a story. It creates emotional resonance, lingers in memory, and can turn an otherwise transactional visit into an emotive, unforgettable encounter. After all, the perfect soundtrack doesn’t just complement luxury; it becomes an intrinsic part of it.

The Psychology of Harmony and Its Impact on Perception

The Emotional Power of Sound

Music has an uncanny ability to evoke emotions and memories, making it an invaluable tool in creating branded experiences. Research has revealed that certain music styles, tempos, and genres can impact behavior in nuanced ways. Sophisticated classical pieces, for example, have been shown to evoke feelings of elegance and sophistication—ideal for luxury retailers or premium dining spaces. On the other hand, ambient electronic sounds might bring a contemporary, cosmopolitan feel to upscale lounges or concept stores.

A Silent Sales Partner

The right music not only enhances emotions but can also subtly influence customer behavior. Studies published in the Journal of Consumer Psychology show that curated soundtracks can encourage guests to dwell longer in a space, which is particularly advantageous for retail and hospitality venues seeking to boost engagement and, ultimately, sales. For luxury spaces, this equates to a higher likelihood of purchases or extended stays that elevate the overall guest experience.

Elevating Experiences Without Compromising Exclusivity

Curated Soundscapes for Luxury Spaces

Unlike generic playlists, luxury environments demand soundscapes tailored to resonate with exclusivity. It’s not just about “what” plays, but “how” it plays in harmony with the space. Custom sound solutions, made with high-end clientele in mind, ensure the sound environment reflects the brand’s identity seamlessly.

Services specializing in background music for businesses provide brands with access to expertly curated playlists that not only fit licensing requirements but also align with the desired customer experience. Leveraging providers who offer business music solutions helps luxury venues maintain an elevated yet effortless atmosphere without the stress of legal or technical complexities.

Integrating Music with Spatial Design

Just as luxury design focuses on carefully selected furniture, lighting, and materials, music must integrate seamlessly into the environment. High-quality sound systems ensure music complements rather than distracts, with every tone calibrated to perfection. Achieving this harmony ensures the auditory experience enhances the premium feel of a space.

Innovative Approaches in Luxury Hospitality and Retail

How Music Enhances Upscale Dining

In upscale dining establishments, soft, curated melodies encourage guests to linger over dessert courses and fine wines. Impeccably chosen tracks subtly encourage indulgence, making music as integral to the experience as the culinary offerings.

Using Music to Create Elegant Shopping Experiences

Exclusive retailers are masters at providing experiential shopping. In this setting, music is deployed to evoke luxury, sophistication, and allure. High-end fashion brands often utilize instrumental or jazz-infused playlists to create that perfect ambiance, enticing clients to browse longer and immerse themselves in the world of the brand.

Transforming Lounges into Lifestyle Experiences

The modern luxury lounge or lifestyle venue is not just a destination—it’s an experience. Ambient music paired with strategic lighting and elegant interior design creates a space that feels intimate yet unforgettably chic. These venues are increasingly embracing innovative technologies that integrate curated soundscapes for consistency and elevated guest satisfaction.

Conclusion

The perfect soundtrack has the power to transform luxury spaces into unforgettable experiences. When carefully curated, music becomes more than a background element—it enhances ambiance, stirs emotion, and creates a connection that lingers well after the visit. For forward-thinking brands, prioritizing soundscapes is an essential step in crafting truly memorable, immersive environments.

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In Guillermo del Toro’s new film “Frankenstein,” Tiffany jewelry and objects become an extension of each scene in which they appear. Selected from The Tiffany Archives, some from as early as the 1860s, each piece embodies history and exceptional artistry, integral to the film’s storytelling. A true cinematic partnership, the House’s nearly 200-year legacy comes to life on the silver screen.

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After making a massive splash earlier this year across the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Big Date Chronograph as well as the new GFJ series to mark Zenith’s 160th anniversary, the brand’s signature colour has popped up on the Zenith Chronomaster Original, now available in a midnight-blue dial for the tricolour counters format, fitted with either a blue calfskin leather strap or a three-link steel bracelet.

A sunray-brushed blue dial accompanies the emblematic composition of overlapping counters in grey, dark grey and blue, which comes from the first Zenith El Primero Reference A386 from 1969. Launched in 2021, the Chronomaster Original preserves the aesthetics of the A386 and replicates key features of that legendary chronograph: a 38mm stainless-steel case, a bezel-less design, pump-style pushers, a sloped profile, faceted lugs, applied baton-style markers and hands, and radial-brushed and polished surfaces. The tachymeter ring, however, is replaced by a 1/10th of a second chapter ring.

The latest El Primero, the automatic chronograph movement 3600, lies at the heart of this edition of the Chronomaster Original. It measures elapsed time to 1/10th of a second, indicated by the red central chronograph seconds hand, which makes one complete sweep of the dial in 10 seconds instead of 60 seconds. In addition to 60 hours of power reserve and a stop-seconds mechanism, the El Primero 3600 automatic offers a tribute to Zenith: an openworked rotor in the shape of the brand’s star emblem, visible through the sapphire-crystal caseback held in place by the 12-sided bezel.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #81 Autumn 2025 Issue

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Late last year, Rolex announced that for 2025, it will expand its commitment to SailGP, becoming its first Title Partner for this elite sail  racing competition – now known as the Rolex SailGP Championship. The yachting world has long been associated with the luxury watch industry, but unlike what most people imagine of yachting – which might include quiet,  relaxing trips as a wind-propelled sailboat slices across the ocean’s vast  surface – the SailGP competitions are anything but.

The SailGP competition  sees 12 national teams in identical high-tech, high-speed 50-foot foiling  catamarans, battling for supremacy on some of the most beautiful coasts around the world. A journey that starts and ends in the United Arab Emirates. The Rolex SailGP Championship was founded by Sir Russell Coutts and  

Larry Ellison in 2019 (then called SailGP), and Rolex has been a partner since  its inception. The idea was to turn yachting, a usually calm and tranquil activity, into a trailblazer, representing precision, teamwork, and innovative technology  that rivals the most thrilling motor sports races.

To achieve this, SailGP envisioned a format where competitors would battle it out in 12 scheduled races  throughout the calendar year. Each of these races would be held in waters close  to shore, benefiting spectators, and would consist of 6 to 7 short 14-minute  rounds over two days. Adding to the excitement, these rounds will culminate  in a grand final at the end of the season, where the top three teams in terms of  points will battle it out in a winner-takes-all style race. 

What makes this yachting competition unique is that every team will race in identical supercharged F50 foiling catamarans. This yacht is a technological marvel, combining engineering innovation and advanced materials like carbon fibre to allow the 15-metre F50 catamaran to sail over three times the speed of the wind, capable of reaching over 100 km/h in optimal conditions.

With all teams using the same equipment, this sailing competition  basically removes the ‘equipment’ element from the competition and instead tests the skills, perseverance and teamwork of the six people – a strategist, driver, wing trimmer, flight controller and two grinders – aboard the catamaran. With this in mind, it is easy to draw parallels between the world of SailGP and Rolex. SailGP CEO Sir Russell Coutts said: “The dawn of the Rolex  SailGP Championship marks a new era in our sport – a testament to a shared  pursuit of excellence, both on and off the water.

Rolex’s heritage of performance  and precision perfectly complements SailGP’s mission to redefine the sport  of sailing – an annual championship, providing thrilling racing in iconic global  destinations. SailGP and Rolex are now one and the same, and we’re incredibly  proud to share this journey with them.”

For some, the partnership with a brand like Rolex is the  catalyst to spur their team to greater heights. Emirates Great Britain SailGP Team strategist and Rolex Testimonee Hannah Mills says: “For me, having the Rolex crown present on the sails of the British  F50 symbolises reaching the pinnacle of sailing. Rolex is an iconic  brand, and whenever I see the crown, it ignites something in me that  pushes me to perform at my best.” 

Since the late 1950s, the Swiss watchmaker has championed the perseverance and resilience in sailing across all its forms – from pioneering feats of exploration to legendary offshore races, prestigious yacht clubs and its most successful sailors. They celebrate human achievement, recognising the journey marked by milestones and emotions that culminate in defining moments – determined by a path followed, not just a trophy.

To that end, in addition to its partnership with SailGP, Rolex is also the Title Sponsor of 15 major international events, from the annual Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race and the biennial Rolex Fastnet Race to grand prix competition at the Rolex TP52 World Championship and  spectacular gatherings at the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup and the Rolex Swan Cup. The Rolex Testimonee family includes legends Paul  Cayard and Robert Scheidt; the most successful Olympic sailor of all time, Sir Ben Ainslie; and heroes at the heart of the Rolex SailGP Championship, Hannah Mills, Tom Slingsby and Martine Grael. 

Speaking of Martine Grael, she is the first-ever female driver for the championship, proving that on the water, gender plays no role in the pursuit of success. Her innovative approach to open data sharing has allowed her team to analyse and refine their strategies in real-time throughout the race weekend and season. As Grael adds: “To make sure we operate as efficiently as possible, we spend a lot of time analysing data and video footage between race weekends. By taking the time to do this, we can continue to improve our strategy and address any weaknesses. Prioritising this as a team is extremely important, especially as we are new to the Rolex SailGP Championship.”  

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #81 Autumn 2025 Issue

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“Don’t Buy Property in Dubai,” reads an online news article. Dubai’s real estate market has a habit of making headlines for all the wrong reasons. After a meteoric post-pandemic boom that saw residential prices surge by around 60 percent between 2022 and early 2025, ratings agency Fitch has raised the alarm. Its report predicts a double-digit decline in property prices as early as late 2025 through 2026, warning that a flood of 210,000 new housing units — double the previous three-year average — could trigger a significant correction.

Despite glossy headlines about villas trading at record prices and ultra-luxury deals topping USD 10 million, the city’s foundation is shakier than many realise. Dubai’s population remains relatively small at four million, and large portions of the city’s residential high-rises sit empty, with occupancy rates often hovering at 30 to 40 percent. Many new developments, especially in the mid-market apartment sector, risk joining the infamous ranks of unfinished or under-occupied projects such as The World archipelago, which has become a symbol of Dubai’s overambitious construction sprees.

Oversupply is not Dubai’s only concern. The emirate’s economy remains heavily reliant on construction and real estate, which together account for more than 17 percent of GDP. When the next global slowdown or regional crisis hits, the consequences could be severe. Historical precedent is stark: the 2008 property crash forced a mass exodus of residents, leaving luxury cars abandoned at airports and billions of dollars of developments stalled or cancelled. Critics argue that the city’s small population and non-diversified economy make it uniquely vulnerable to another repeat of such events.

Geopolitics adds another layer of risk. The Gulf is no stranger to tension, and rising disputes involving Saudi Arabia, Iran and Qatar, alongside regional militant threats, could undermine investor confidence. Falling oil prices — currently struggling below USD 100 per barrel — further strain the emirate’s economic cushion, threatening both property values and consumer spending.

Even the glitzy promises of long-term visas, tax incentives and international schooling options may not be enough to counteract structural vulnerabilities. Analysts warn that while high-net-worth individuals may continue snapping up villas in Palm Jumeirah or La Mer, the mass-market apartment segment is exposed to oversupply and weakening yields. Fitch predicts residential prices could drop by up to 15 percent in affected segments, and rental yields have already softened by 30 basis points in some areas.

Dubai’s real estate frenzy has long relied on the mantra “build it and they will come.” The city has delivered spectacular growth for investors in the short term, but the question remains whether it can sustain this momentum without collapsing under the weight of its own excess.

That said, not all is doom and gloom. Premium villas and waterfront developments continue to attract wealthy buyers, and brokers like Knight Frank and Savills highlight record transactions and rising upper-end prices. Some experts suggest that Dubai may avoid a full-scale crash if these high-demand niches remain resilient. Yet even this should be approached with caution, as history has shown that luxury markets are not immune to systemic shocks.

Dubai is at a crossroads as reports forecast a market teetering on a knife-edge, vulnerable to oversupply, geopolitical instability and economic volatility. For anyone considering a real estate investment, caution is essential.

For more on the latest in luxury property reads, click here.

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Electric vehicles are widely celebrated as the future of sustainable mobility, but the environmental and social costs behind their production and use are often overlooked. While EVs reduce tailpipe emissions, their lifecycle — from resource extraction to disposal — raises significant ecological and ethical questions.

Resource Extraction and Environmental Impact

The materials powering EVs come at a heavy cost. Batteries rely on lithium, cobalt, nickel and rare earth metals, often sourced from countries with weak environmental regulations. Mining these resources is energy-intensive, disrupts local ecosystems and contaminates water supplies. In regions like the Democratic Republic of Congo, cobalt is frequently mined under hazardous conditions, sometimes involving underpaid or child labour. Even when handled responsibly, the extraction of these metals generates substantial waste, calling into question the true sustainability of EVs.

Producing EV batteries creates large amounts of carbon dioxide, sometimes offsetting the lower emissions generated during the vehicle’s use. Estimates suggest manufacturing a mid-range EV can produce 11 to 14 tonnes of CO₂, factoring in both the car and its battery. The actual environmental impact depends on the energy mix where the battery is produced. EVs charged with renewable energy offer far greater benefits than those relying on coal or gas-fired grids however, EV batteries degrade over time, reducing range and performance. Recycling remains limited and without widespread infrastructure, retired batteries may become hazardous waste. Even when recycled, the process consumes energy and resources, highlighting the need for more sustainable end-of-life solutions.

Furthermore, a mass transition to EVs strains existing electricity grids. Peak demand during charging can cause instability, particularly in regions with limited infrastructure. In some cases, EV owners rely on diesel-powered generators at charging hubs, reducing the environmental gains. The heavier weight of EVs, especially larger trucks and SUVs, also accelerates road wear and damages infrastructure more than conventional vehicles, raising maintenance costs.

Social Justice Concerns & Practical Limitations

Policy incentives and corporate marketing often overstate EV benefits, presenting them as a silver-bullet solution to climate change. Without considering broader environmental and social impacts, EV adoption can mask rather than solve ecological problems. As mentioned earlier, the pursuit of green mobility can exacerbate inequalities. Mining operations often exploit vulnerable communities, while the benefits from EV adoption tend to be concentrated in wealthier regions. Without ethical supply chains, the promise of sustainable transportation risks becoming a burden for those least equipped to bear it.

EVs remain more expensive upfront than their internal combustion counterparts. Charging networks are uneven and long-distance travel can be slow and stressful due to limited range and inconsistent charging infrastructure. In cold weather or under heavy load, real-world range can drop by up to 35 percent. Battery replacement costs — which can reach USD 15,000 to USD 23,000 — add further financial considerations for long-term ownership.

EVs may reduce carbon emissions but increase other forms of pollution. Heavier vehicles produce more tire wear, generating microplastics that pollute air and water. Fires involving lithium-ion batteries require substantially more water to extinguish than traditional fuel fires and pose unique safety hazards.

Alternatives and Trade-Offs

Electric vehicles are only one piece of the transportation puzzle. Alternatives such as public transit, hydrogen fuel cells, shared mobility and improved infrastructure may provide more effective environmental returns in certain contexts. Assessing the true sustainability of EVs requires a full lifecycle perspective, from production and usage to disposal. The inconvenient truth is clear: while EVs have an important role in reducing emissions, they are not a panacea. Policymakers, manufacturers and consumers must confront the full environmental, social and economic costs to ensure that the transition to electric mobility is genuinely sustainable.

For more on the latest in luxury motoring reads, click here.

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As plagiarism scandals rise, the fashion industry confronts uncomfortable questions around profit and originality. With accusations between Dior and Chagee reigniting debate over design ownership, LUXUO unpacks how cultural reference, commercial intent and consumer perception collide in an increasingly image-driven marketplace.

Dior Dupe Or Chagee’s Creative Autonomy

The allegations centre on visual similarities between the luxury house Dior and the Chinese milk tea chain Chagee. The core of the claim is that Chagee’s blue-and-off-white paper bag packaging has been widely compared to Dior’s pastoral toile de Jouy canvas tote bags. Many online have noted the likeness in colour palette, pattern aesthetic and overall look, prompting some consumers to label Chagee’s bags and merchandise as knockoffs or design plagiarism. Others, however, argue that both brands draw from shared cultural references. Chagee’s prints can be read as an homage to traditional Chinese porcelain motifs, while Dior’s toile de Jouy is an 18th-century French fabric known for pastoral scenes, florals and mythological figures printed in a single colour on a pale ground. Christian Dior adopted the pattern in 1947, cementing it as a signature motif of the house.

The debate intensified as the Yunnan tea brand expanded beyond beverages into merchandise featuring the motif, including notebooks, tote bags, tissue packs and reusable cups. This shift places Chagee in the middle of the long-standing marketing tension between appreciation and appropriation. While comparisons tend to focus on surface-level similarities such as the blue-and-off-white palette and illustrative detailing, the design roots behind both brands point to a broader historical narrative. Toile de Jouy itself emerged in France as a reinterpretation of East Asian decorative traditions, especially the blue-and-white designs found on Chinese porcelain. Various design references and historical overviews note that early European fabric printers adapted these aesthetics directly from imported Chinese ceramics.

Chagee’s visual identity draws from this Chinese porcelain tradition, while Dior has revived toile de Jouy, a motif already shaped by centuries of Sino-European exchange, for contemporary luxury fashion. The public discourse has therefore shifted away from a binary question of plagiarism towards a more nuanced consideration of how global brands navigate shared artistic heritage in an era where cultural borrowing is scrutinised instantly and loudly.

Plagiarism’s Longstanding Place in Fashion

Fashion trends move in cycles and (in doing so) have often borrowed or been “inspired” by what came before. Yet the line between inspiration and imitation is not always easy to define. The fashion industry has long battled the issue of plagiarism, from design ideas trickling down from luxury houses to fast fashion labels to the copying of distinct shapes, silhouettes and motifs. The rise of AI has made this even easier, accelerating the ability to replicate patterns, artworks and brand signatures almost overnight.

It is important to remember that across several jurisdictions, copyright protection is tightly constrained and usually extends only to design elements that can be detached from a product’s function. In practice, this means features that could stand alone as artistic works, such as signature patterns or graphic prints, receive meaningful protection. Enforcing these protections in a court of law remains complicated, as even small alterations can render a design legally distinct.

In 2019 Fashion Nova unveiled a near-identical version of a vintage Thierry Mugler gown after Kim Kardashian wore the original to an awards show. In 2017 Forever 21 used Gucci’s signature green and red stripe motifs on jackets and tops. This led to Gucci issuing a cease and desist before Forever 21 filed a pre-emptive lawsuit to block any legal action from the luxury house. The initial lawsuit was thrown out and Gucci proceeded to sue. The companies eventually settled out of court.

E-retailer ASOS has also been accused of plagiarising the work of several independent British designers, including Laurie Lee’s Heart Breaker leather jacket in 2017. On the subject of taking from independent artists, Zara has long faced criticism for lifting the work of multiple creators without credit or compensation. One well-known case was designer Tuesday Bassen, who called out Zara after noticing her colourful illustrations, including pins, lips and cartoon-style girls, appearing on Zara products in what were deemed almost exact copies. Zara brushed off the accusations while claiming to pull the items from its collections.

A conversation around plagiarism cannot exclude Shein. In 2024, British footwear manufacturer Dr Martens filed a lawsuit against Shein’s parent company for alleged copyright infringements on its design patents, claiming Shein profited from the knockoffs while muddying Dr Martens’ brand image. The continued mass production of supposedly one-of-a-kind creations at a fraction of the cost has taken designs from red carpet to off-the-rack overnight. The issue of plagiarism in fashion is far from superficial. It affects the bottom line of brands and also dilutes the image they have spent years, sometimes decades, building. Even when brands pursue litigation, it is often difficult to prove clear evidence of copying, because if a mass-market retailer like ASOS or Zara makes even a small alteration to the motif or pattern, the design may be deemed legally distinct.

While lawsuits are hard to win in fashion, public pressure has helped speed up accountability. Social media has enabled independent brands and designers to voice their grievances and rally consumer support in ways that were previously impossible.

The Business Of “Borrowing” Design Aesthetics

Fast fashion retailers often aggressively “borrow” or reference luxury fashion designs because speed-to-market, cost-saving and risk aversion make copying a low-risk business decision. Fast fashion and luxury are increasingly converging on this model, where taking inspiration — or outright replicating — can feel more like strategy than ethics. Repeated design borrowing also carries a creative toll. Emerging talent can be stifled when originality is continuously co-opted, and cultural appropriation becomes a persistent concern when heritage motifs or artisanal techniques are lifted without credit or compensation. Consumers may not always penalise brands, but in an age of social media visibility, public opinion can swing rapidly, turning perceived plagiarism into reputational risk.

While plagiarism may save money in the short term, it carries hidden costs. Reputation is fragile; plagiarism scandals can backfire spectacularly in the age of instant online scrutiny. Trust and consumer loyalty may erode and emerging talent could disengage entirely. Some smaller designers are pushing back through litigation, social media campaigns and crowdfunding to protect their intellectual property. Fashion institutions, trade associations and fashion weeks could play a stronger role in policing design theft. Proposed reforms include stronger IP protections, licensing or collaboration models and transparent “inspiration credits” that acknowledge sources while still allowing creative reinterpretation.

Ultimately, these debates reveal a deeper tension at the heart of fashion: the constant push-pull between creativity and commercial pressure. In a system driven by speed, trends and the homogination of “novelty”, the real question is not just who copied whom, but whether the industry still values originality at all.

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A Crushing Dependence

The regional dynamics are stark and undeniable. In thirty years, Japan’s share of global GDP has fallen from 14% to 4%. During that same period, China rose from 2% to 18% of world GDP, becoming today Japan’s leading trading partner and accounting formore than 20% of its exports.

Despite a spectacular increase in its military budget, Japan’s armed forces are still designed not to ensure the country’s independence, but to operate in coordination with the United States. In fact, Japan’s energy dependence on the U.S. is vital: 45% of its imported oil travels through maritime routes secured by the U.S. Navy. In other words, Japan’s strategic architecture remains that of a country that has never fully regained its autonomy.

The Impossible Choice

The country, and its leaders, have recognized the inevitable: China’s ascent is structural, just as America’s decline is. Japan’s geopolitical dilemma is easy to state: the decline of its protector is far more dangerous than the rise of its rival. Yet Japan clings to an illusory hope: that its protection will be guaranteed by Washington as long as it obeys and firmly resists Beijing.

But the American withdrawal from Afghanistan offered definitive proof that cost alone now determines U.S. engagement—regardless of administration. Washington withdraws, whatever the profile or loyalty of its allies.

A Silenced Voice

Here lies the tragedy: a country that has never been allowed to recover its own voice after 1945, not because of China, but because of the same country that now treats it as a bargaining chip.

For Washington, Japan is less a goal than a strategic instrument. When America’s priorities are China, technological competitiveness, and reducing foreign commitments, Tokyo’s are stability, diplomatic survival, and room for autonomy. This is why Japan is left wondering whether it can still survive between these two giants—one of which, America, sees it not as an end but as a means, a card on the negotiating table.

The Fatal Denial

Today the country lives in a form of denial that helps it avoid confronting its existential fear: that the United States cannot protect it indefinitely, and that China’s rise is irreversible.

Its tragedy is not so much Chinese power as the arrival of a world in which neither the United States nor Japan is the center of gravity in Asia anymore. It fears not so much China’s strength as the prospect of a region that will soon revolve more around Beijing than around Tokyo or Washington.

The Strategic Void

But what would remain of Japan without American power?

• A country without a true army.
• A constitution written by foreign victors.
• An economy pulled between the tectonic plates of Washington and Beijing.
• A diplomacy without an independent axis.

Turned into a strategic outpost, Japan has seen several generations grow up learning to survive through obedience, rather than through sovereignty. Since 1945, it has never truly had the chance to choose its own path or make its own voice heard. Not because China prevented it, but because a superpower now hesitates to see it as anything more than a bargaining chip.

The Warning for Europe

Francis Fukuyama was right: “Sovereignty is measured not only by military capability, but by the ability to define one’s own choices.” In this sense, Japan’s example should be a wake-up call for Europe. Not to advocate any dogmatic break with the United States, but because loyalty, today, is no longer a guarantee—it is a cost to be weighed.

Europe must regard its sovereignty as an active lever of power, one that can neither be bought nor begged for, but built. May the Japanese case finally pull it out of its naivety—or its torpor.

May it finally rewrite its own narrative, equal to the challenges of the 21st century.

This article was first seen on Michel Santi.

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Dr. Samuel Rowley-Neale, an advanced materials scientist at Manchester Metropolitan University, in the UK, and an enthusiast for tribology (the science and engineering of understanding friction) admits that he was surprised when he started looking into the world of horology. “Really there’s been very little in the innovation in terms of how lubrication is used in watch movements for hundreds of years,” he says.

What efforts there have been, he adds, speaking frankly, do not really stand up to analysis: “Very often the application of advanced materials [to improve lubrication] turns out to be more about decoration. They’re gimmicks, with very little work having been done on the hard science of actually lowering friction.”

He is not surprised by that at least: there are plenty of highly specialist boffins who have worked on “blue sky research” for years using incredibly advanced pieces of equipment – costing millions – only to make limited advances themselves. Indeed, maybe he and his colleagues are on the brink of a breakthrough: for the last couple of years they have worked with the British watchmaker (and living legend) Roger W. Smith to develop a 2D molybdenum disulfide-based nano material, similar to graphene – for patent reasons they are tight-lipped about details. This might be used to coat certain watch movement parts to bring about a measurable reduction in friction.

PROOF OF CONCEPT

This coating is, as he puts it, “well known to be lubricious. The trouble has been finding ways to allow it to be sticky and stable and lasting.” Critically then, they have also developed proprietary methods of hybridisation (embedding the material in other carbon-based materials to fix it) and of deposition – how to get this material onto small parts in a way that is consistently even. That is something that the application of ultra-thin, extremely hard diamond-like coatings (DLCs), among recent friction-reducing technologies, has yet to pull off satisfactorily. Rowley-Neale and co now have a proof of concept with one of Smith’s watches and are shortly set to establish a multi-university team (with specialists at the University of Birmingham) to refine this further.

“Of course, understanding this material, being able to consistently replicate it and being able to say it will do this [reduce friction] and do that consistently too is very hard,” Rowley-Neale concedes. “If we can crack its use in watches – at such a small scale – then we can see it following the F1 model and trickling down to other industries the likes of aerospace and automotive.” His best estimate? Three years until they have an industrial-scale methodology.

That is a telling phrase. Over the last 20 or so years, several brands have introduced pioneering technologies that aim to reduce the friction between the many parts of their movements but invariably these have been showcased in one-off (or extremely limited-edition) experimental watches, as their names often suggest.

There has been Ulysse Nardin’s Freak, the first watch to etch its two escapement wheels from slippy silicon rather than the usual steel, with the brand having since experimented with parts made from cultured diamond. Patek Philippe has tried a similar concept but in the form of the standard Swiss lever escapement, while Audemars Piguet’s Cabinet No.5 offered a calibre with oil-free pallet stones. Cartier proposed its ID One and Jaeger-LeCoultre made the Master Compressor Extreme LAB – with its oil-free silicon escapement, a self-winding mechanism using ceramic ball-bearings and patented use of black diamond and something called Easium Carbonitride.

WATCHMAKING GRAIL

But for anyone wondering why there is this all this effort being made at all, it comes down to two words: physics and oil. In short, in any mechanical action, friction between the parts reduces their efficiency – that is, increases the energy required – and, with a machine that is all about precision, efficiency is key. To minimise this friction, and so also to reduce wear and tear on the parts that comes through all that rubbing, the watch industry has, since day one, used oil. As Abraham-Louis Breguet may or may not have actually said: “Give me the perfect oil and I will give you the perfect watch.”

You can see feel his frustration though. Oils were originally organic – often extracted from boiling the fat glands in the feet of cattle, since you asked. They were highly volatile and over time would oxidise, coagulate – especially when mixed with the microscopic dust from all that that wear and tear – or evaporate. Around 50 years ago, a menu of dedicated synthetic oils – still used today, in amounts so tiny as to be virtually invisible to the naked eye, with around 1/1000th of a millilitre enough for an entire movement – were a world better. These extended the advised time between servicing from two years to five or more. The oils keep getting better – and have some fantastic, MCU-like names, from Moebius to Molykote – but they still degrade eventually.

That, in large part, is why a mechanical movement needs periodic servicing – to clean it, but also to replace the oil that was applied to the 60 or many more points when it was first assembled. Different points need different types and quantities of oil, prevented from spreading by what is called an epilame surface treatment. Today most lubrication is handled by robots with inkjet printer-like shooters.

FATIGUE HAPPENS

Baumgartner agrees: he says that experience, rather than logic, tells him that while it may be possible to forego lubrication on parts with low frequency/slower interactions – compensating through the use of, say, Teflon-style coatings or the self-lubricating quality of copper – and by reducing friction through the introduction of more favourable angles between other parts, high frequency/fast interaction parts like the escapement will always need oil.

“Until that is, we can make something like a low-frequency escapement, so I suppose you never know,” he laughs. “[But rather than eliminating oil, at least] now there are more intelligent ways of using it, only on those parts that really need it, and stopping altogether on those parts for which lubrication is actually bad over time because it just attracts dirt and dust. But the fact is that [whatever you do] some kind of limit is eventually reached – fatigue happens.”

Even Roger W. Smith – the watchmaker working with the Manchester Metropolitan University on nanotech coatings – has his own kind of scepticism. He argues that if there is an oil-free watch in the future, it is more likely to come not from materials science alone so much as in combination with a serious rethink of traditional watchmaking parts and their interactions. The one-time apprentice to George Daniels – inventor of the “99% friction-free” co-axial escapement, one of the great advancements in mechanical watchmaking of the last two centuries – Smith has since improved on that design with a single wheel version and then a smaller, more efficient one. Smith concedes that some oil is still needed but reckons his watches can now go up to 15 years between services.

“And if we can crack the application of nanotech then I can easily see that being 25 years,” says Smith. “Right now all of the attempts at minimising lubrication seem to me like sticking a plaster on the problem but not actually addressing it. In many respects [commonplace parts] of the watch movement are fundamentally flawed – the lever escapement, for example, is a high friction escapement and even with additional tech would still be inefficient. But I don’t think there’s really any great interest [across the watch industry] in making these kinds of improvements. I think the feeling is that it’s a huge business and we know watches work with current technology – so why bother trying to re-think the foundations?”

WHAT PRICE PROGRESS?

Given the time, effort and capital required to produce something like a lubricant-free watch, its real-world appeal is naturally a matter of price too. As Marcus Wagner, the marketing manager for Sinn notes, there is a point where such developments make a watch uneconomical, which is why so many oil-free watches never leave the development stage. Sinn, like fellow German brand Damasko, has its own lubricant-free technology, a diamond-coated escapement technology unveiled 30 years ago, the first used in a series of watches (currently in six models) and more still in development.

But even for a German brand predicated on more engineering bang-for-buck, Wagner concedes that “it’s a lot of work when possibly the audience doesn’t value the progress (it embodies) enough to pay for it. The problem is that scaling up (these no/low oil technologies) is very expensive. Lubrication remains an on-going experiment for us even as we’re pretty sure that no watch can run with no oil at all.”

Of course, while less lubrication might make regular servicing less imperative, any lubrication means that servicing cannot be eliminated altogether (notwithstanding the idea that anything mechanical, and especially water-resistant, will benefit from some kind of service eventually). “As the situation stands, there is absolutely no lubricating material that can conserve its basic qualities indefinitely; everything changes over time. The length of time that timekeepers will function is thus limited by how much time will pass before the oil will deteriorate,” as the Roret Manuel de L’Horloger watchmaking manual noted in 1825.

Maybe not that much has changed since then. Maybe acceptance of this idea is what keeps much of the industry making incremental advances on what remains, essentially (and, for many, appealingly) 18th century technology. And, as Wagner jokes, “from a purely sales perspective [it could be argued that] expanding the lifespan of a product is kind of stupid.”

HIDDEN COSTS

Those of a conspiratorial mindset might further suggest that this also suits those watchmakers for whom after-sales servicing is a profitable sideline to watch manufacture – and, the more high-tech watch movements and materials get, the more they are beyond the reach of more affordable independent service centres. The same has happened with the computerisation of car engines. This said, with the need to maintain skilled and expensive labour, which takes up time and space, many watch brands might rather dispense with this altogether.

And maybe there is a bigger question here: even if the watch industry could produce a truly lubricant-free watch at a commercial scale, would it offer a clear benefit to consumers? After all, for all that watchmakers might advise customers to regularly service their watches, the cost and inconvenience of this might lead to some scepticism as to how often most of them actually do. It may be creating bigger problems in the longer run, but assuming the watch is wound occasionally and kept in temperatures neither very hot nor very cold – neither a friend to the oil within – it is not unheard of for a modern mechanical watch to run well without servicing for decades.

“Servicing remains a hidden cost of mechanical watch ownership, because it’s neither inexpensive nor quick. We accept the additional inconveniences with, say, cars in part because we’re more knowledgeable about them [through the requirement of legal safety checks, for example] but also because we tend to need our cars in the way we definitely don’t need mechanical watches,” says Sharp, who further wonders whether the escalation in warranties being offered lately is more about distracting customers at the point of purchase from asking awkward questions about the burden of servicing. “I think most people who own a mechanical watch are in the fix-it-when-you-need-to business and not in the mitigating-risk business, like most wait until they’re ill to see their doctor.”

APPEALS TO EMOTION

Here is another idea too: maybe oil should always be part of the mechanical watch because it is fundamental to the character of what a mechanical watch is, and that to keep pushing the application of, among other whizzing advances, the latest materials science is to further dilute that character. It is to further move the mechanical watch away from being an object that, in theory, will still make design and engineering sense centuries from now – as its clock forebears did centuries ago – and towards being a high-tech, specialty-manufactured product that at some point is inevitably outmoded. It is the same objection some feel towards the replacement of the internal combustion engine with electric motors – it is progress, but at what cost to emotion?

There is, agrees Philip Barat, head of R&D at Patek Philippe, a fine line. “The key is to find the right balance: to improve reliability, some technical advances do require less traditional processes, but they always remain within the spirit of mechanical watchmaking,” he suggests. “We use new materials and technologies only where necessary. [Besides which] to improve the longevity and reliability of our movements, it’s not essential to design a watch that is entirely oil-free. The priority is to eliminate lubrication where it is most critical.”

Oil, a little oil or, maybe some day, no oil at all, it pays to recall that the mechanical watch is in part beloved precisely because it is such a mini-marvel of engineering. Felix Baumgartner recalls once being told by his watchmaking teacher that even if the speed of the gears in a watch movement are ponderously slow relative to the turbo-charged engine of a Porsche, because the surfaces of its parts are so small the pressures are much greater. “And so it’s incredible that while the Porsche has to be serviced every year, a mechanical watch only needs it every five years,” he adds. “It’s already performing better than other engines.”

This story was first seen as part of the WOW Legacy 2025 Issue

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Florence captivates with its Renaissance splendor and, let’s be honest, some absolutely mind-blowing food. Tucked between ancient cobblestones and historic facades, the city serves up Tuscan cuisine that ranges from humble trattorias to refined dining experiences. But there’s a restaurant that’s causing quite a stir lately. The James – part of the Manfredi Hotels collection – has emerged as the place where sophisticated diners congregate. Step inside and you’re immediately struck by its fabulous design. The space just works. Every element, from the intimate table arrangements to the warm, flattering lighting, creates this unmistakable air of casual elegance that feels authentic rather than staged.

What exactly elevates The James to possibly the best restaurant in Florence? It’s their unwavering dedication to what’s on the plate. The kitchen celebrates seasonal bounty from nearby producers, respecting Tuscan heritage while refusing to be imprisoned by it. Traditional recipes get subtle contemporary twists. The result? Dishes that honor Italy’s culinary legacy without feeling like museum pieces. For food enthusiasts trying to dodge tourist traps and experience something genuinely special, The James deserves a spot at the top of your list.

Location Magic and Design Brilliance

Location can make or break a restaurant, and The James nailed it. Nestled in Florence’s historic center, it places diners at the pulsing heart of the city’s cultural energy. With the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio just a stone’s throw away, dinner here becomes part of your broader Florentine experience. The interior design captures this spirit beautifully—clean architectural lines mingle with rich woods and subtle Renaissance touches. Soaring ceilings and generous windows flood the space with natural light, creating an atmosphere that manages to feel both spacious and intimate at once—decidedly modern yet rooted in history.

The genius of the design goes beyond aesthetics. Take the acoustics, for example. Unlike many trendy spots where conversation requires shouting, The James was thoughtfully engineered so you can actually hear your companions speak. This matters more than you might think. Recent figures from the Italian National Institute of Statistics show Florence attracted over 10 million visitors last year – many seeking high-end experiences. Restaurants like The James must balance exclusivity with warmth. The outcome? A space where design isn’t just decorative but fundamental to creating a meaningful dining experience.

An Atmosphere That Whispers Luxury

A restaurant’s vibe transcends its visual appeal. The James has cultivated this remarkable atmosphere of understated luxury that perfectly complements Florence’s character. Soft strains of Italian music provide subtle background to dinner conversations. It’s like finding a pocket of tranquility in this otherwise bustling city. And the service? Exceptional. Staff seem to anticipate needs without hovering that rare balance that defines true European hospitality.

This level of refinement naturally attracts a particular clientele. You’ll spot international travelers, serious food lovers, and art enthusiasts breaking bread together. The World Travel & Tourism Council backs this up, noting a 15% surge in Italy’s luxury dining sector over the past year. Evenings at The James unfold at a gentle pace. They encourage lingering, savoring not just the food but the entire elegant Florentine moment. This comprehensive vision sets it apart, even in a city overflowing with remarkable dining options.

The Food: Where Tuscan Tradition Meets Innovation

Strip away everything else and The James still stands tall because of what hits the table. The Executive Chef crafts menus that read like love letters to Tuscany’s agricultural bounty. You might start with handmade pasta from heritage grains, paired with a robust Chianti from vineyards you can practically see from Florence. A starter could feature impossibly fresh burrata with local tomatoes and fragrant basil – ingredients sourced within 50 kilometers, a thoughtful nod to sustainability.

For main courses, classics like *bistecca alla Fiorentina* receive reverent treatment – perfectly grilled, finished with house-infused rosemary oil. Then there are more inventive offerings, perhaps a seasonal truffle risotto showcasing whatever fungal treasures local foragers discovered that week. Desserts might include panna cotta enhanced with local saffron threads, cleverly reimagining regional traditions. The wine selection impresses too with over 200 bottles, many organic or biodynamic. Knowledgeable sommeliers guide your selections without a hint of pretension.

Great meals often form part of broader travel experiences. A recent report from the Italian Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies highlights how seriously Tuscany treats its Protected Designation of Origin regulations, which directly supports The James’s quality-focused approach. Worth noting, they offer genuinely thoughtful vegetarian and vegan options too. This kind of dining doesn’t just feed the body; it connects you to generations of culinary knowledge reimagined for today.

The Future of Florence’s Dining Scene

The James exemplifies everything that makes Florence a world-class culinary destination. The combination of stunning design, genuinely sophisticated ambiance, and exceptional food creates an experience that sticks with you. As the city evolves, with European Travel Commission forecasts suggesting a 12% increase in luxury tourism within two years, establishments like The James will continue defining high-end dining excellence. Guests leave with more than satisfied appetites – they carry away lasting impressions of Tuscan indulgence.

Food lovers planning Italian adventures should consider restaurants like this essential stops. They provide direct connections to cultural heritage through the universal language of exceptional cuisine. Whether you’re celebrating something special or simply curious, The James delivers substance through its thoughtfully constructed menu and relentless pursuit of quality. It demonstrates that tradition and innovation aren’t competing forces but complementary elements that, when balanced properly, invite everyone to discover the enduring appeal of Italian gastronomy at its finest.

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