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When Chanel’s in‑house perfumer Olivier Polge is at work, you will not catch a hint of fragrance on him. He forgoes wearing perfume during working hours to fine‑tune his olfactory senses, ensuring that nothing interferes with his creative process.

Without the distraction of a personal scent, he remains unclouded. This insight was shared by Polge during his first visit to Singapore recently, where he attended a regional event celebrating the Chanel N°5 fragrance range.

Since its creation in 1921, the N°5 perfume has stood as a revolutionary fragrance, celebrated not only for its pioneering blend of floral and aldehyde notes, but also as the first perfume launched by a fashion house. Polge has since carried this legacy forward. Among his many creations for Chanel is the fresh and modern N°5 L’Eau — his take on the house’s most famous scent.

Since stepping into his role as Chanel’s master perfumer in 2015 — following the tenure of his father Jacques — he has crafted 22 new fragrances for the maison, including this year’s Comète, the latest addition to the Les Exclusifs de Chanel range.

Reflecting on his first impressions of Singapore, Polge expressed surprise at the city’s lush landscape and tranquillity. “I was expecting a very dense city, but it’s much more spread out and greener than I imagined. It’s also very calm,” he shared.

In an insightful quick‑fire session with GRAZIA Singapore, Polge shares his thoughts on the role culture plays in how perfumes are perceived and received, fragrance layering and his creative process.

As you might have seen, Singapore is a culturally rich place, with people from diverse backgrounds. Do you think cultural diversity influences the perceptions and reception of fragrances?

Olivier Polge (OP): I think it has a major impact. I appreciate diversity in general, especially since we live in such an interconnected world … At the end of the day, perfume is a cultural artefact. While Chanel is globally renowned, its roots lie in French or European culture. When we create fragrances, we do so from France for the world, but we’ve noticed, without necessarily planning it, that some scents resonate more in specific countries. That’s fascinating to me, especially when you look at the data. [Climate, too,] plays a big role [in how perfumes are perceived and received]. I lived in New York for five years, and the summers there are very hot and humid—something we don’t experience in Europe, where it’s drier. I realised that certain fragrances feel more comfortable in one climate than another.

Do you personally believe in having a signature scent?

OP: Personally, I believe fragrance is tied to one’s personality. I do believe in having one signature scent for myself, yes.

How do you feel about layering fragrances, which is currently a popular way of creating a scent unique to one?

OP: I can’t [endorse it], because I create [perfumes] that I consider finished and [can hold their] own … But I also understand that there are [cultural nuances]. For example, I’ve travelled to the Middle East, where there’s a cultural way of fragrancing oneself. A fashion designer never knows how people will mix and match the clothes they create, and [it’s the same for a perfumer]; that’s one of the surprises I welcome. I wouldn’t layer fragrances myself, but I understand [why some would choose to do so].

How does Chanel navigate modern trends while preserving its spirit?

OP: Chanel’s strength lies in our full control of the creative process—from owning our formulas to sourcing and refining raw materials. Each perfumer passes down their expertise, ensuring continuity while allowing room for evolution. For instance, we’ve partnered with farmers in Grasse to cultivate the highest-quality flowers, even expanding into new crops like tuberose and iris. This meticulous approach ensures consistency while enabling us to explore [new frontiers].

Trends can’t be ignored, but they must be approached thoughtfully. At Chanel, every creation must resonate with our heritage while addressing the present moment. This balance is a strength, allowing us to innovate while staying true to our distinctive style. The richer our history, the more freedom we have to reinterpret it.

Could you sum up for us your personal philosophy about the work you do in a single sentence?

OP: Well, in one word, it’d be creation. It’s never reproduction. At Chanel, we’ll never name a perfume after a raw material. We’re not trying to reproduce nature. We’re always in a state of transformation. I love transformation. I’d add that to creation—creation and transformation. Two words!

This article was first seen on Grazia Singapore.

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Luxury travel is not only about fancy hotels and big resorts — it’s about special, custom experiences. For those wanting adventure, renting a boat offers a mix of luxury and freedom, letting travellers visit special places while enjoying the comfort of their own yacht.

Why Choose Boat Rentals for Luxury Travel?

Picture cruising on the Mediterranean’s clear waters, anchoring at remote coves reachable only by water, or visiting the Caribbean’s hidden spots at your speed. Boat rentals give an exclusive and flexible feeling, letting you create an itinerary that fits your wishes.

Renting a luxury yacht or catamaran through services like Nautal lets you enjoy famous coastlines and active harbours, along with high-end comforts, custom services, and stunning views. With options for onboard chefs and personalized excursions, every aspect can be tailored to provide a luxurious experience that outshines regular luxury hotels.

Places to Visit by Boat

Some of the best luxury travel experiences happen from the deck of a private yacht. The Amalfi Coast, featuring steep cliffs and lovely coastal villages, serves as an ideal backdrop for a stylish sailing trip. In the Caribbean, St. Barts represents luxury with its private beaches and fine dining accessible by boat.

Exploring these destinations by sea gives a different viewpoint and allows you to steer clear of tourist crowds, find secret bays, and anchor whenever you want. Boat rentals are versatile, providing both relaxing and adventurous options.

Improving Travel with Distinct Sailing Experiences 

One of the best features of luxury boat rentals is the access to special sailing events that land cannot offer. Whether it’s having dinner during a sunset on deck, snorkelling in hidden coral reefs, or joining exclusive coastal gatherings, a private yacht creates unforgettable memories.

For those wanting thrill, activities like jet skiing, scuba diving, and exploring underwater caves deliver excitement. Guests just wanting to relax can sunbathe on large decks, enjoy gourmet meals from private chefs, or experience a wellness retreat with onboard spa services. This kind of customisation turns an ordinary holiday into a remarkable journey, combining luxury with personal taste.

Advice for Arranging a Luxury Sailing Trip

When planning a luxury sailing holiday, picking the right boat is really important. Choose a yacht or catamaran based on your group size and level of comfort. Customize your itinerary to include hidden spots and local culture for a deeper experience.

Booking through reliable online services ensures a smooth process, providing a range of premium boats with expert crews. With easy booking and tailored concierge services, you can obtain everything required for an elegant and enjoyable sailing trip.

The Path Ahead for Luxury Travel 

As more travellers look for custom, engaging experiences, boat rentals are becoming a favoured option among wealthy explorers. Blending privacy, luxury, and adventure, they transform travel to meet the desires of modern luxury seekers. 

If you want to make your next holiday better, renting a yacht is a great way to travel. It combines luxury, privacy, and adventure, letting you explore the world without limits.

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The announcement of Pantone’s Mocha Mousse as the Colour of the Year for 2025 is more than just a passing trend — it is a reflection of the world we live in. This warm, earthy brown signals a cultural pivot away from ostentation and excess — embracing quiet luxury, sustainability and a more considered approach to consumption. In an era where economic slowdowns and social consciousness impact spending, luxury brands are recalibrating their messaging. Browns — with their inherent association with longevity and grounding — align with this shift.

Who Decides The “Colour of the Year”?

The Pantone Colour of the Year program engages the design community and colour enthusiasts in a conversation around colour, highlighting the relationship between colour and culture. Pantone selects a colour each year that captures the global zeitgeist — the “Colour of the Year” expresses a global mood and an attitude, reflecting collective desire in the form of a single, distinct hue. For 2025, the Pantone Color Institute selects PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse — a warming, brown hue imbued with richness.

“It nurtures us with its suggestion of the delectable qualities of chocolate and coffee, answering our desire for comfort. Underpinned by our desire for every day pleasures, PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse expresses a level of thoughtful indulgence. Sophisticated and lush, yet at the same time an unpretentious classic, PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse extends our perceptions of the browns from being humble and grounded to embrace aspirational and luxe,” states executive director of Pantone’s Colour Institute, Leatrice Eiseman.

Colour as a Cultural Barometer

Pantone describes Mocha Mousse as capturing a global mood of “connection, comfort, and harmony,” but it also signals a cognitive shift — a move towards visual clarity and cognitive efficiency. In an overstimulated digital age, where information overload is the norm, the appeal of a grounding, neutral shade makes sense. Unlike vibrant hues that allow for bold contrasts and movement, its monochromatic nature risks stagnation. Shades of brown — while sophisticated — require intentional styling to avoid blending into the background, a challenge for designers seeking to maintain visual interest.

Previous years have seen the Colour of the Year trend towards vibrant hues. For instance, 2024’s Peach Fuzz captured what Pantone described as “our desire to nurture ourselves and others”, offering a velvety, gentle peach tone depicted as being “the all-embracing spirit enriched mind, body, and soul.” In 2023, Magenta — or “Viva Magenta” — was described as brave, fearless and pulsating, promoting a joyous and optimistic celebration of life. While nowhere near the exact shade of pink, it was perhaps not a total coincidence that a standout from fashion week Fall/Winter 2022 was Valentino’s Hot Pink, reportedly designed to encourage a “moment of reflection”.

In 2022, Pantone introduced PANTONE 17-3938 Very Peri, a colour described as a “courageous presence encouraged personal inventiveness and creativity, symbolising new beginnings” in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The Colour of the Year for 2021 — PANTONE 17-5104 Ultimate Gray and PANTONE 13-0647 Illuminating — conveyed a message of strength and hopefulness, reflecting the resilience required during challenging times. Similarly, in 2020, PANTONE 19-4052 Classic Blue instilled calm, confidence and connection, reflecting the need for stability as we crossed into a new decade and a new era. It is interesting to note how many of the previous year’s colours carry a similar sentiment of optimism, strength and calm, with 2020’s Classic Blue being one of the most recent to reference 2025’s colour of the year — with stability in the face of uncertainty, a theme that did not seem to echo in the joy of the following years.

Looking back, the common thread running through these selections is the pursuit of the aforementioned qualities of optimism, strength and calm — qualities that reappear in 2025’s Mocha Mousse. Its return to earthiness echoes 2020’s Classic Blue, another shade that suggested stability in uncertain times. However, where Classic Blue reflected a forward-facing confidence, Mocha Mousse seems more introspective — perhaps a sign that after years of post-pandemic optimism, there is a renewed desire for restraint and quiet luxury.

Fashion as a Historical Oracle: Monochrome, Mocha, Minimalism

Fashion has always been a mirror of its time, and the prominence of brown hues in recent collections speaks to a broader movement — one of restraint, stability and a rejection of overt displays of wealth. In a world of economic uncertainty and shifting values, Mocha Mousse offers a sense of grounding. Its presence on the runways of luxury houses underlines this shift. Throughout history, fashion has served as a visual record of economic and social currents, translating global sentiment into fabric, silhouette and colour. The prominence of brown hues in recent collections underscores this role, reflecting a larger movement toward restraint, stability and a rejection of overt displays of wealth. “What I find interesting is that the Color of the Year tends to crystallise palette trends or desires I think we all ‘feel’ instinctively and these kinds of trends can speak to something much broader socio-political, socio-economic, socio-personal stories that crop up globally,” says Zena Khan independent curator and researcher who is specialising in Malaysian contemporary art.

Brown’s resurgence is not without historical precedent. In fashion, the 1970s saw a similar embrace of earthy, muted tones, particularly within the bohemian aesthetic championed by designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Ossie Clark. Shades of brown — ranging from deep chocolate to soft caramel — reflected a cultural shift towards naturalism, freedom and a rejection of the hyper-glamorous, rigid A-line silhouettes of the 1960s “Mod” era.

Archive Ossie Clark (left), Vintage Yves Saint Laurent (right) both circa the 1970s.

Today, against a backdrop of inflation, geopolitical tensions and changing luxury ideals, Mocha Mousse resonates in much the same way. The “quiet luxury” aesthetic — characterised by understated elegance and heritage craftsmanship — aligns with this mood. Labels such as Bottega Veneta, Loro Piana and The Row have leaned into brown’s organic sophistication, reinforcing the idea that true luxury is no longer about logos but longevity.

Bottega Veneta (left) Loro Piana (Centre) and The Row (right)

The Business Behind Pantone’s Choice

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It is also important to acknowledge that Pantone is a commercial organisation, which means it functions as a business. When they unveil the “Colour of the Year,” it is not just about aesthetics — it is strategically tied to various industries, with partnerships and links to home appliances, rugs, wallpaper and other interior decor products that help drive consumer interest and sales.

Pantone’s Colour of the Year is not selected in a vacuum. It is a strategic move influenced by shifts in consumer behaviour, market trends and even political undercurrents. Mocha Mousse embodies warmth and connection, aligning with themes of sustainability, mindful consumption and a more timeless approach to design. By selecting Mocha Mousse, Pantone is subtly shaping industry trends, pushing a narrative that aligns with the collective desire for stability and balance. But as with any trend, the cycle continues. The predictability of brown may eventually give way to something bolder, marking the next inevitable evolution in colour psychology and cultural sentiment.

Yet, for all its cultural relevance, Mocha Mousse is ultimately restrictive. Unlike the electric optimism of Viva Magenta or the softness of Peach Fuzz, brown lacks the dynamic range that allows for movement and contrast. From a colour theory perspective, browns absorb rather than reflect light, creating a flatter visual effect. In fashion, this means that unless paired with texture, tailoring or strategic layering, brown can risk looking stagnant or monotonous. Unlike jewel tones or pastels — which can be manipulated to create depth and drama — brown’s muted nature makes it harder to stand out.

Herein lies its biggest limitation — while it feels relevant now, its longevity is questionable. The cycle of colour trends is dictated by the same forces that drive consumer behaviour — what feels fresh today will feel overused tomorrow. By the time Mocha Mousse has filtered through fashion, interiors and branding, the appetite for something more vivid and more expressive, will inevitably return.

Mocha Mousse represents more than just a seasonal colour — it signals the industry’s ongoing recalibration. Fashion — like history — moves in cycles and brown’s resurgence suggests that the extravagance of the early 2020s is giving way to a more contemplative era. Yet, as always, the pendulum will swing again. Today’s preference for muted minimalism may eventually give rise to something bold and expressive, mirroring the vibrant excesses that followed past economic downturns.

For now, though, Mocha Mousse reigns, offering a moment of pause in an otherwise chaotic world.

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