SUCCESS

We go once more into the breach at Parmigiani Fleurier, this time as part of a guided tour with other Asian press. Our last story on this most amazing of watchmaking nodes – the brand itself is just one part of the set-up – covered all the basics of all the constituent parts of what is known as the Parmigiani Watchmaking Centre.

For this run, we are once more not visiting Atokalpa and Elwin, unfortunately, and we acknowledge that these remain significant gaps in our otherwise extensive coverage. Nevertheless, we did get an in-depth rundown on what happens at the aforementioned sites and dutifully sum it up here.

Of course, if you are already relatively familiar with Parmigiani Fleurier, or have read our story from three years ago (it lives on online), nothing has changed at all. We have made an effort to spruce things up with commentary on each of the production sites, based on what might make them valuable…

On that note, the biggest update at Parmigiani Fleurier in the last few years is the news that the entire Parmigiani Watchmaking Centre (PWC), including the brand Parmigiani Fleurier, was and might still be in search of a new owner.

Currently, the whole show is still under the stewardship of the Sandoz Family Foundation. This news (still) offers us another angle to present the information about PWC in a different light, and that is just what we have done.

We begin therefore with the very short list of what Parmigiani Fleurier, which we might use interchangeably with PWC, cannot do. It is really just five items… Parmigiani Fleurier does not make sapphire crystals, synthetic rubies, leather straps, bracelets and mainsprings.

Given that the brand is going great guns with sales of the Tonda PF, which Bloomberg says accounted for an incredible 98 percent of the brand’s sales in 2023, we imagine that plans must be afoot to add bracelet production to the capabilities of Les Artisans Boitiers, or else make a strategic acquisition. The short of it is that there is nothing to report, yet, and nothing rises above the level of rank speculation.

A Foundation In Restoration

The story of Parmigiani Fleurier is inextricably linked to its founder, Michel Parmigiani. In the heart of the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s, when the Swiss watch industry was wobbling precariously, Michel (whom we address by his first name for clarity) established a workshop dedicated to the near-lost art of restoring antique timepieces.

His extraordinary talent for breathing life back into historical marvels earned him an elite clientele, including the Patek Philippe Museum and, crucially, the Sandoz Family Foundation. To wit, Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni often says Michel has a black belt in watchmaking, thanks to his prowess in restoration.

The foundation, built on the fortune of the Novartis pharmaceutical company, entrusted Michel with maintaining its vast and priceless collection of historical clocks and automata.

This relationship blossomed, and with the foundation’s backing, the Parmigiani Fleurier brand was officially launched in 1996. Its first creation, the Toric QP Rétrograde, immediately established the brand’s identity with its distinctive knurled bezel inspired by classical architecture and its complex, beautifully finished movement.

For Michel himself, restoration is a way to return life to mechanical wonders, without altering the character of the original. This deep understanding of historical mechanics and distinct absence of egotism became the brand’s unshakable foundation.

Manufacturing Powerhouse

To realize this vision of uncompromising quality, Michel and the foundation embarked on an ambitious project: building a vertically integrated industrial hub around Parmigiani Fleurier. This Parmigiani Watchmaking Centre is a constellation of specialist companies, each a master in its own right, giving the brand a level of self- sufficiency that few can claim.

Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF): The heart of the operation, VMF develops and produces high-end movements for Parmigiani Fleurier. It also supplies a select list of prestigious clients, including Hermès (which owns a 25% stake) and Richard Mille. It is the brand’s central nervous system, handling everything from R&D to final movement assembly and finishing. TAG Heuer’s Movement Strategy Director Carole Forestier-Kasapi calls Vaucher one of the best in the trade; VMF works with TAG Heuer to produce the brand’s split-seconds chronograph movement.

Atokalpa & Elwin: These firms produce the virtually microscopic, high-precision components that are the building blocks of a movement. Atokalpa is a specialist in the regulating organ—the escapement, balance wheel, and even the hairspring—a capability possessed by only a handful of manufactures worldwide. Elwin excels in bar turning, creating a vast array of tiny screws, pinions, and spindles with micron-level precision.

Quadrance & Habillage: This is the dial-making expert. From intricate hand-turned guillochage to the delicate grained finish of the Tonda PF dials—achieved by manually rubbing silver powder onto a brass plate—this is where the face of the watch is given its soul.

Les Artisans Boitiers (LAB): The casemaker, LAB masters both modern CNC machining and traditional hand-craftsmanship. It is responsible for the elegant, ergonomic cases of the Tonda PF as well as extraordinary one-off creations like the white gold double hunter case of the La Rose Carrée pocket watch. This integrated structure means that Parmigiani Fleurier produces virtually everything in-house, from the most complex calibre to the smallest screw, and is able to create virtually any complication it wants.

Silent Luxury

For much of its history, Parmigiani Fleurier was a brand for those in the know, including King Charles III, who famously wore a Toric Chronograph for years, even when he was the Prince of Wales. However, the appointment of Guido Terreni as CEO in 2021 marked a pivotal moment. Terreni, the man behind the phenomenal success of Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo, brought a new vision of “silent luxury” to the brand.

This was crystalized in the Tonda PF collection. Launched in late 2021, it was an instant sensation, and that is no exaggeration. The Tonda PF distilled the brand’s essence into a clean, refined, and incredibly sophisticated sports elegance watch. Its design is a study in subtlety: the fine knurled bezel, the intricate guilloché dial, the elegantly integrated bracelet, and the minimalist “PF” logo. It was a watch that did not shout; it whispered. Terreni noted was only possible because of the incredible depth of in-house expertise and capacity at PWC.

The success of the Tonda PF has propelled the brand to new heights, with turnover reportedly surging, according to Bloomberg. The collection has expanded to include innovative complications such as the GMT Rattrapante (see our note on this in the Moser story) and simple models, such as a celebrated no-date Micro-Rotor watch. Simultaneously, the brand continues to honour its classical roots with a revival of the Toric collection, now featuring exquisite perpetual calendars and chronographs with solid gold movements, with gold dials to match.

In a world of hype, Parmigiani Fleurier stands apart. It is a brand built on the quiet confidence of a master restorer and powered by one of the most comprehensive manufacturing hubs in Switzerland. With Terreni’s refined vision, it has found the perfect harmony between its rich heritage and a compelling, modern voice, proving that true legacy is not just about preserving the past, but artfully reinventing it for the future. The collection was developed in under a year, a feat Terreni noted was only possible because of the incredible depth of in-house expertise and capacity at PWC.

The success of the Tonda PF has propelled the brand to new heights, with turnover reportedly surging, according to Bloomberg. The collection has expanded to include innovative complications such as the GMT Rattrapante (see our note on this in the Moser story) and simple models, such as a celebrated no-date Micro- Rotor watch. Simultaneously, the brand continues to honour its classical roots with a revival of the Toric collection, now featuring exquisite perpetual calendars and chronographs with solid gold movements, with gold dials to match.

In a world of hype, Parmigiani Fleurier stands apart. It is a brand built on the quiet confidence of a master restorer and powered by one of the most comprehensive manufacturing hubs in Switzerland. With Terreni’s refined vision, it has found the perfect harmony between its rich heritage and a compelling, modern voice, proving that true legacy is not just about preserving the past, but artfully reinventing it for the future.

The post Parmigiani Fleurier Rewards a Closer Look appeared first on LUXUO.

In the world of fine champagne, refinement is often found not in abundance but in restraint. Brut Nature Champagne represents the most uncompromising expression of this philosophy. As part of the broader Extra Brut family, it speaks to a modern vision of luxury defined by precision, transparency and respect for raw material. These champagnes strip away excess to reveal structure, minerality and an almost architectural clarity that appeals to the most discerning palates.

Understanding Extra Brut and Brut Nature champagnes

Extra Brut champagnes occupy a distinctive place in the champagne spectrum. They are defined primarily by their extremely low sugar content, which allows the wine’s natural character to take centre stage. While traditional Brut champagnes contain a small amount of dosage to balance acidity, Extra Brut significantly reduces this addition, and Brut Nature eliminates it entirely.

This absence of sugar correction exposes every detail of the wine. Vineyard selection, grape maturity, fermentation precision and ageing choices all become immediately perceptible. There is no sweetness to soften edges or mask imbalance. As a result, these champagnes demand exceptional technical mastery and consistency.

Sugar composition and dosage explained

Dosage refers to the addition of sugar after secondary fermentation. In Brut Nature champagnes, dosage is either zero or so minimal that it remains imperceptible. Typically, Brut Nature contains less than three grams of residual sugar per litre, while Extra Brut may reach up to six grams. This difference, though numerically small, has a profound impact on mouthfeel and perception.

Without sugar to round the palate, acidity feels sharper, texture more linear and aromas more precise. Citrus, chalk, saline notes and subtle oxidative tones become dominant. These characteristics appeal to experienced drinkers who value structure and definition over softness.

A contemporary expression of luxury

In modern luxury culture, understatement has become the ultimate form of sophistication. Extra Brut and Brut Nature champagnes embody this ethos. They do not seek to impress through opulence, but through clarity and authenticity.

Their appeal resonates strongly with collectors, sommeliers and design-driven audiences who appreciate minimalism and intentionality. Just as contemporary architecture celebrates clean lines and honest materials, these champagnes showcase wine in its most transparent form.

They also reflect a shift toward conscious consumption. Choosing a low dosage champagne signals an interest in craftsmanship rather than indulgence. It is a statement of confidence and discernment, aligned with modern luxury values that prioritise quality, origin and precision.

Gastronomic pairings for Extra Brut champagnes

The sharp definition of Extra Brut and Brut Nature champagnes makes them exceptional partners at the table, though their pairing requires thoughtful consideration. Their high acidity and mineral tension interact best with dishes that respect balance and purity.

• Raw seafood such as oysters, scallops or langoustine
• Delicate fish preparations with minimal sauce
• Caviar and lightly salted roe
• Fresh cheeses with restrained creaminess
• Vegetable based dishes highlighting texture rather than sweetness

These champagnes excel when paired with iodine rich, saline or subtly umami flavours. The absence of sugar allows them to cut through fat while enhancing natural savoury notes. Overly sweet or heavily sauced dishes tend to clash with their linear profile, making restraint essential in menu design.

Why Extra Brut appeals to modern palates

As global tastes evolve, drinkers increasingly gravitate toward drier profiles across categories, from spirits to wine and even coffee. Extra Brut champagnes align perfectly with this movement. They offer a sensory experience that feels intellectual, focused and intentional.

Younger collectors and experienced enthusiasts alike appreciate the honesty of these wines. Each sip communicates place, climate and technique without distraction. The experience becomes analytical yet deeply satisfying, inviting slow tasting and reflection.

This growing interest also reflects a desire for versatility. Extra Brut champagnes transition seamlessly from aperitif to food pairing, maintaining coherence throughout a meal. Their freshness refreshes the palate, while their structure sustains attention over time.

Brut Nature as a benchmark of excellence

Among Extra Brut styles, Brut Nature stands as the ultimate benchmark. Producing such a champagne requires grapes of exceptional quality and perfect ripeness, as there is no sugar to correct imbalance. Only producers with rigorous standards and precise control can achieve harmony at this level of dryness.

When successful, Brut Nature champagnes deliver a rare combination of tension and elegance. They feel vibrant yet composed, austere yet expressive. This duality is what makes them so compelling to collectors and luxury consumers who seek depth beneath simplicity.

Their ageing potential is another key attribute. Without dosage, these wines often develop remarkable complexity over time, revealing nutty, saline and toasted nuances while retaining their core freshness.

The refined pleasure of uncompromising champagne

Extra Brut and Brut Nature champagnes redefine what luxury means in the modern era. They are not about sweetness or spectacle, but about purity, balance and intention. By eliminating sugar, they place absolute trust in terroir, craftsmanship and time. For those who value precision and authenticity, these champagnes offer an experience that is both cerebral and deeply rewarding. They represent a quiet confidence, an elegance that does not seek attention but commands respect. In the world of fine champagne, they stand as a testament to the beauty of restraint and the enduring appeal of absolute clarity.

Images: What is a Brut Nature Champagne?

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